Sept 16-17, 2023 I really wanted a ride for Rides with Friends that showcased the Massacre Rim International Dark Sky Sanctuary. But not surprisingly it is one of the most remote places beyond the NCA. So I planned a route from the turnoff from Co Rd 34 to Massacre Ranch, then on to SR 8a, then looping back through Upper High Rock Canyon, very close to Steven’s Camp and back to the start. As a mid-September trip the temperatures were bound to be high. I pre-rode the route on the 14th to make sure there was water, the roads were ok, and I had a clear vision of the route. It is also a good measure of a ride, If I can do it in a day, then a group can do it in two. It isn’t so much a comparison of what I can do vs others but just the reality of group dynamics, touring speeds and such. As it turned out the 45 mile route with 2600’ in climbing took 6 hours, with 5 hours of riding time. I was riding “fast” to cover the distance. I started at 12:30, so daylight was burning. There were a few vistas I was really looking forward to sharing with the group.

We met at the Friends of Black Rock High Rock Visitors Center. There were 3 first timers and Stacey Wittek, the Executive Director of FBRHR. This was Stacey’s second trip. She was on the original High Rock Canyon/Steven’s Camp trip that started Rides with Friends. I was meeting Al Lavassani, Angela Khermouch, and Rinik Kumar for the first time. I had been in contact with each of them via email or social media prior. The group had a great variety of experiences that all contributed to a fantastic trip. Rinik was on an adventure touring set up from Kona, Sutra. I think Kona is killing it with this bike! Check out the Unit for a flat bar version. Rinik has been touring the San Francisco Bay Area and I would love to join in there. Angela was on a fire red/orange Salsa Rangefinder, Cholula. She had fantastic bikepacking setup, dialed in from past adventures. Some of her bags are of her own design. Al was on his Trek Rail full-suspension e-bike, given the name on this trip Light Sabre/ Lifesaver by Angela. I get regular questions on using e-bikes on my trips. I am all for it. Ultimately the rider needs to decide if the  trip length and terrain is suitable for their bike. So far I have had three successful e-bike users on my trips. Stacey was on her 1999 Kona Nunu (translates to Celebration) in Magic Yellow, for its first overnighter! It was equipped with a majority of bags by Nuke Sunrise Bike Bags. I was on my Falconer B+, because it knows the way.

The start was a bit of a drive from Gerlach, 41 miles on Co Rd 34. I wish I had tour bus so I could be on the PA to talk about the terrain we were driving through. We left the views of the Black Rock Desert and climbed into the canyon lands between the Calico Mountains and the Granite Range. We passed Leadville, the trailhead for High Rock Canyon (Little Smokey Creek), Lund Petrified Forest, the trailhead for Little High Rock Canyon Loop to the north and to the south Hog Ranch. Co Rd 34 is a great gravel road to tour in its own right. Al was riding with me, so he got the spiel.

We rolled out on High Rock Canyon Rd. This road is also the route to Steven’s Camp, the exit for the High Rock Canyon route. The terrain is rolling sagebrush grassland cut by shallow canyons. It is a great area to view coyotes, raptors, ravens, horses, and pronghorn. There is always a good variety of reptiles on trail. I pointed out a few springs on our way into Grassy Canyon. We were in ranch land, in the company of cows.

Mid-September is still a hot time of year. It is surprising to most riders how hot 75^o under the Nevada sun can be. We took time in limited shade to make sure no one overheated. Everyone responds differently to heat so it is important to keep tabs on how everyone is doing. The best thing is to take advantage of shade opportunities. In my mind I was wondering what is the best clothing? Loose fitting vs. tight, full coverage vs. exposed skin, high tech vs. natural fibers? I think the same type of preparation that goes into your winter kit preparation needs to go into your summer. My default summer kit has been full coverage, loose-fitting, and keeping track of fluids and sunscreen. When I am on solo trips it is not uncommon to take prone breaks (naps) in the shade of scraggly mahogany.

The final descent to Massacre Ranch had fantastic views of Massacre Lake and the edge of the Massacre Rim Wilderness Study area. We made a stop at a low volume spring that was feeding a stock pond. Seeing the water bubble up from under a rock is such a cool sight. The water was cold and tasty – tasteless. Stopping to collect water, filter, and enjoy the view was a nice built-in break to enjoy as a group.

Massacre Ranch is a great little property managed by the BLM within the NCA. Similar to Steven’s Camp it is a no-fee, first-come-first-serve bunk house that understandably smells a little mousey. But it is also a great area for dispersed camping and has the luxury of a vault toilet. It could serve as a base camp for exploring the area if you are willing to travel to get water (or drive in with all your water needs). Nevada Off-Road has comprehensive maps to the area.

We had a fun evening setting up camp, cooking, and singing. The song did not prevent the bats and owls from hunting in the area. The owls hunting through our meadow were something I hadn’t experienced. Such big, silent, fliers! We saw stars, shooting and fixed. Listened to coyotes, the real singers of the high desert. And woke to Stacey leading us in Sun Salutations yoga. (I am keeping the videos for later blackmail!) Awesome! Day two started off right!

We rolled down to the intersection of CR 8a where the BLM had interpretive signs explaining the Dark Skies Sanctuary. Living in the rural mountain west it is easy to take dark skies for granted. What do you mean you have never seen the Milky Way? The dark, silent, solitude of Nevada’s public lands is a valuable but very accessible resource.

We passed ranch operations, corral, windmill and water tank, where cowboys were mounting up to move their livestock around. Over the last months cattle haulers have become common sights on the interstates and dirt roads. We followed the road to Steven’s Camp but turned off on a minor road to upper High Rock Canyon. This was another crowd pleaser location to show off. This is the springhead for High Rock Creek. The grasses grow waist high here. The canyon opens into a bowl with aspens on the rim. The area is fenced off to prevent livestock from making a mess of the resource. This also a part of the historic Applegate Trail. To make the short hike through the canyon you would come out at Steven’s Camp, with wet feet. We exited to complete the loop through the Massacre Range back to Grassy Ranch. Now it was a rolling 8 miles back to the start.

By the numbers this route was 45.5 miles with 2,700’ of climbing. While it is billed as visiting the Dark Skies Sanctuary most of the Great Basin, especially Black Rock Country, is fortunate to offer exceptional dark skies. The north west corner of the Black Rock Desert – High Rock Canyon Emigrant Trails National Conservation Area is exceptional for its canyonlands, sequestered springs, wildlife viewing, the Massacre Range, the Applegate Emigrant Trail, rockhounding and ranching in a cold desert. For adventure touring this area represents the remote crossroads between California, Oregon and Nevada. I hope to see you out there!

A big thanks to Angela for sharing her photos! Check out her Instagram and website.