February 11-21, 2026 Nothing like a sandstorm to knock out the zippers on your tent. This was Doug’s dilemma going into the Mega Death Tour, a 400+ mile loop of Death Valley starting at Eureka Dunes. We had set aside 2 weeks for this trip in the middle of February. I was thinking of it as training for my upcoming tour in Brazil and Doug was thinking of it as training for his return to the Colorado Trail. I arrived at Eureka Dunes to see Doug load his bike to go home, his tour was over before it began. Not completely though, he had a great adventure to some petroglyphs over Steele Pass. Check out Doug’s Micro Death Tour here! I made the decision to head out solo. I had a route, the gear, and the time.

Day 1 It was a bit of a late start. I had a 5-6 hour drive from home to Eureka Dunes. I climbed Dedeckera Canyon, Steele Pass into twilight and eventual darkness. My goal was Saline Valley or beyond. I started seeing quite a few lights approaching the Saline Valley hot springs camp. I wasn’t expecting quite the “Burning Man” crowd of campers. I didn’t understand that President’s Day Weekend had such a following in the Park. I found a spot to camp by 10 pm. It is a bit disappointing to miss the views by riding into the night. I was ready for my day to be over. Thankfully the amplified Doors music ended as I laid down to sleep, fitting.

Day 2 The campsite was a buzz with people getting up and conversing over coffee. I made my way to the spring to fill up on water. I chatted with a young guy who was touring in his car with a ½ baked plan taking advice to stick around camp and enjoying a soak. He told me Lippincott Pass was a big pile of rocks. That was reassuring.

Saline Valley had me thinking about the scale of everything. Enormous, vast, expansive! I was riding at 1,100’ and the peaks of the Inyo Mountains abruptly shot up to 11,000’. What a special place! The highlights were the dunes, saline lake and the old tram for getting salt out of the valley.

Eventually I cut across the valley for the 1900’ climb up Lippincott’s pile of rocks (max grade 23%) after the gradual 1,500’ climb through the length of Saline Valley. I chatted with a few jeep and truck tourists on my way up. They assured me it gets steeper. Yes, it always gets steeper and tomorrow there will be steeper grades than today’s.

But the views! I was starting to collect my first pictures of flowers on iNaturalist. The hike-a-bike always came as a nice break to different leg muscles and shoulder muscles. Overall the road surfaces were good. A nice thing about steep mountain roads is they regulate the speeds limiting the washboard.I had to remind myself to look back over my shoulder. Not only to see a totally different view but to appreciate where I had just ridden through.

At the top of Lippincott you are treated to a minimal downhill to the Racetrack Playa or for me I rolled into Homestake Dry Camp. It is a great little campground with a pit toilet. I arrived around 5 pm, there were a few campers and a few more came in by dusk. I was surprised to see so many people.

I had completely over estimated my daily mileage. I thought I could ride through the night and make it to Homestake in one push. I think if I tried this I would destroy myself. Maybe this level of travel would be aspirational, definitely possible.

Day 3 Homestake is a little higher in elevation with a little cooler morning. You are touring in the Panamint Range, the roof of Death Valley National Park. Settle into the mountains, you are in for quite a ride. This has become a bit of a mantra, settle in. Visiting the Racetrack Valley and seeing the mysterious moving rocks was a real treat. But the 9+ miles of washboard was intense. I am convinced the washboarded roads are my least favorite riding condition. Not to worry, Death Valley will give you all the tests, rock, sand, washboard, climbs, heat, cold, and wind. You can rank them after your experience. The fat bike does a great job of erasing rock and sand, and minimizes the impact of washboard. I like climbing and can manage the heat and cold with my kit. But by Day 3 I was ready for a nice long downhill on a smooth road.

Teakettle Junction was hoot! I was asked if I left a kettle. Nope. I carried a collapsable kettle from Sea to Summit, but I wasn’t leaving that behind. I am “cold soaking curious” but I really like my hot meals and hot drinks at the start and end of my day. Through Lost Burro Gap (love the name) there was a slight downhill into Hidden Valley, a bump then, Ulida Flat, then to the base of Hunter Mountain climb. There were 5 or so anticipated climbs on the route. Hunter was a big one. Doug had shared an overlanding post with me showing trucks getting stuck in the mud. Thanks for the inspiration. My strategy, settle into the climb, ride what you can, hike the rest, enjoy the views. And stay out of the mud!

The Hunter Mtn climb was wet sand and rock. There were a few springs spilling over onto the road. Depending on your navigation device (I use a Garmin 1040 Solar) you are given climb profiles with distances, grades and average grade remaining. I look at these and as someone who enjoys climbing it can be a fun game. Some folks I ride with hate climbing and I imagine some of these profiles would inspire dread.

The false summit puts you onto a ridge, almost equal in length as the initial climb is a false flat to the anticipated highpoint. Now I get to go downhill! This is just a testament to the massiveness of these mountains, this one being just a small portion of the Panamint Range. Topping out at above 7,100’ as the sun was dipping low, temperatures were starting to drop.

The climb didn’t have the mud, but the descent did! I hedged my bets and sought out the first spring Doug indicated on route, Jackass Spring on USGS topos. It was a clean flowing spring and after filtering 3L it was twilight and I was descending by a handlebar mounted bikelight. The next spring was a gusher! It was the cause of the mud bogs on Hunter Mountain Road. I saw a moto behind me cautiously navigating the mud, then there was an overlander behind them. So far I was doing a good job tiptoeing around the full width puddles. Eventually the two parties behind me passed. It was getting a bit hectic navigating the mud in the dark, but as the temps dropped the mud was beginning to set up frozen.

Eventually I saw the moto and truck tucked into a pullout for the night. My goal was Boxcar Camp about 10 miles away. I waved and called out as I passed. But after a couple more mud bogs I made a pact myself that I would camp at the next suitable place. I was beyond the mud at that point, but I didn’t know that. But now I was tucked into my tent and sleeping bag for the night.

Day 4  What a great morning! I had just finished packing up when the moto rolled up. We chatted a bit. He had a really hard day the day before. He dumped his bike repeatedly and was super nervous about the mud. He was impressed by the work I must be doing. And that was the general sentiment I got from folks on the road, though one guy said I must be f@cking crazy, and then he gave me a bag of popcorn.

Then the overlanders came through. They were bike riders and interested in my Meriwether Long-tailed fat bike. It is always a good conversation starter. They resupplied my water and were on their way.

This was the day I had been waiting for, 2000’ of climbing, BUT 6700’ of descending! It was awesome. A super highlight was descending Darwin Canyon into Panamint Springs. At the bottom of the canyon I met the hikers who were headed to Darwin Falls. I got the question, “Is that an e-bike?” My answer is, “No, it’s a Me-bike.” Often they don’t get it and want to know the range it gets. Me: “I get about 50 miles to the burrito.” Sometimes that sinks in.

After my burger and beer in Panamint Springs and learning they do not have a tent site available in the campground resort. I made a scattered resupply at the gas station store and headed to the Nadeau Trail to find a wild (dispersed) campsite on public land. It was a great spot, quieter than a campground. I appreciate the amenities of a campground and minimal impact but I love the peace and freedom of wild camping.

Day 5 Today felt kinda flat, lack of climbing. The Nadeau Trail is a highlight! It is a bit beat up but I am super glad to experience it. I got more wildflower pictures and was resupplied by a couple from Vermont, with an orange, banana, cookies and water. Super generous, super appreciated. Then I dropped into Panamint Valley and made my way to Ballarat on Indian Ranch Road.

The highlights there are Surprise Canyon, a recommended side hike, the valley lake, and the Ballarat Trading Post. I got a couple Cokes and some weather beta, widespread rain starting at 10 am tomorrow. And Goler Canyon isn’t so bad. Alright a good mix of news and I had a plan, camp at the base of Goler Cyn and get an early start.

Day 6 Waking up in the middle of the night is fine, I get to bed soon after the sunsets. Doing things in the dark, unpacking, packing, riding, is always a little slower, requires a bit more attention, and is worth practicing. It is a bummer to miss the views but better to ride in the dark to avoid riding in the rain and snow. Sunrise in Goeler was awesome and the miles were slowly ticking by. The crux was a technical descent, slippery sand covered boulders at Mengel Pass, that amazes me trucks and jeeps were getting through. Water was easily available from the road. I passed Stellas Cabin, but stopped at the Geologists Cabin, these are pretty cool bits of real estate in the Park. The warning signs for Hanta Virus should not be underestimated. I was now in Butte Valley, passing Striped Butte heading down Warm Spring Canyon. I stopped at Warm Spring Camp and mine for the night.

The predicted rain came in around 11 am. I was just settled in my tent. The wind was raging so the tent was staked and guyed out. I checked the integrity of my pitch several times and everything was holding. It rained for 4 ½ hours. I was wondering how the roads would hold up. At a break in the rain I looked up the canyon to see it was lightly snow covered. I just made it through.

Day 7 Today was like no other. With the wind during the night I woke to a dry tent. No one likes packing a wet tent. The road was dry as if it hadn’t rained. It was also freshly graded. My thought was if the graders made it up here, they probably have West Side Road fully open. Approaching West Side, I could see the sand whipping in the wind. Whatever velocity those winds were, I now had a tailwind pushing me north through Death Valley proper. 

Johnson Canyon caught my eye and there is plenty to explore off this road. Badwater Basin had a beautiful lake and it was a trip to be riding at 250’ below sea level. Did I notice a boost from the increased partial pressure of O₂ ? Nope, the oxygen must have been blowing past me too fast to catch my breath. Eventually I made it to the Furnace Creek Visitors Center, found a secure campsite, and over indulged at the bar-restaurant at the resort. I earned it. And tomorrow had me nervous. Echo Canyon’s pass  is 18 miles from Furnace Creek with a 5000’+ climb. I think Doug tricked me into doing this.

Day 8 Echo Canyon had my attention. The wind had dropped, temperatures were mild. Passing the Hotel California looking resort I saw the Backroads van. I chatted with their guide the night before. It was a hiking tour. Their clients were getting a royal treatment. I also talked to some folks on an e-bike tour, they were well taken care of as well. No complaints, I take good care of myself. 

Echo Canyon is beautiful. Not the deepest, or the longest. Is it the only campground in a canyon? All along the lower portion are pullout campsites only available by reservation, 9 sites available on Rec.gov as a part of Death Valley’s roadside backcountry camping. Past Inyo Mine on the USGS topo there is markings for an old railroad grade. I should have checked it out, maybe next time. Where does this railroad go?

Descending into Amargosa Valley, to Lees Camp was a swoopy fun ride. Just like that I was back in Nevada and I could feel it! There was another railroad grade to the east and Big Dune sand dunes to the south east. Places to visit, routes to follow! And it was so easy to pick a place to camp.

Day 9 By now I was pretty set in finishing this route in 11 days. As I would have it, I woke to stormy skies. But it was bands of heavy clouds. Maybe I would miss them. I have a reputation for threading the needle. Today’s plan was to head to Beatty and make my way to Bonnie Claire, Sarcobatus Flat. I was familiar with this area from my series of 3 day winter tours in *2015*. As an alternate route I might suggest the old railroad grade through the Bullfrog Mining District.

In Beatty I made my way to the Death Valley Nut and Candy Co. as well as the Death Valley Coffee Time. After a mocha and two scones, I resupplied with a couple of tall Mtn Dews and a pound of pumpkin seeds. I’m not very good at resupply, but I had plenty of food still on my bike.

And it was snowing, a mix of snow, grapple, and rain. Again, if I were thinking clearly I would have stayed in Beatty. In my mind I had 2 nights, 2 ½ days of travel to go. I was ready to put this loop to bed.

Out of Beatty I went through Rhyolite, maintained in a state of arrested decay by the BLM, and on to Sarcobatus Flat. There was getting to be some muddy spots which had me concerned. I decided to get some early sleep, pack in middle of the night, then ride when the ground is frozen.

Day 10 The plan was solid, except I really didn’t have gloves for temperatures in the teens. Nor appropriate foot wear for that matter. I made good early morning progress on frozen ground but I had to stop to defrost my fingers every so often. Once the sun was up, I made roadside breakfast and welcomed the warming rays.

But now I was on a snowy climb. The higher you went the deeper the snow got and the steeper the road pitched up. I was hike-a-biking for quite some time. But I enjoyed the views, my snacks and those Mtn Dews! Joshua Trees, pinyon pines, and junipers all in the snow. And the Hard Luck castle and mine, currently off the market but it has been for sale! Over the top I was able to follow a truck track in the snow, but going was slow. It was a pretty narrow single track and easy to catch an edge and go down. At some point I turned off the route the vehicle was going but eventually got below the snow zone. The roads were wet but there wasn’t sticky mud.

Next stop was Gold Point, a mining camp that was doing everything it could to not become a ghost town. There are a couple of good write-ups in Travel Nevada, but the saloon was closed when I arrived and the town was deserted. Lots of character, memorabilia, and probably a great place for a beer when they are open.

I headed out of town. I was nearing my mileage goal for the day that would set me up for a reasonable last day. I turned onto a gentle climb past the town water supply. I could see the snow zone ahead of me and had to decide, try to find the least muddy place here, or continue to mud and snow. I camped just off the road. I had some time to dry out the tent from the now melted frost I had packed from Sarcobatus Flat. My plan was for a sunrise start to Tule Canyon.

Day 11 Waking up to 14^o is always a bit of a shock. I wasn’t worried about packing an icy tent. I had a pretty solid routine for defrosting my fingers and I was starting with climb. The heat is in the pedals. The heat was not in my water bottles. Rookie mistake, I didn’t keep them under cover, they all froze. So no hot breakfast. No problem.

Tule Canyon is another trip highlight. It is washed out and rugged. Ideal for the fat bike. At the corner from Rd 160 to Tule Canyon Rd there is a pond that is overflowing down the road. Combined with the other springs there is good flow for several miles. Below that to the opening at the north end of Death Valley proper is a combination of graded and washed out sections. Just passed mile 15 I lost the route and followed the wash even though I had the GPS track telling me I was off course. It took about a mile to reconnect with the road and it was good.

The final climb to cross the Last Chance Range had the views! Near the top I met some young and enthusiastic hikers in their jeep. They jumped out and grabbed me a Gatorade. Then we swapped stories of where we had been and the wildlife we had seen. The common theme was how lucky we were to have all this public land to ourselves. They are the next generation of stewards.

Then it was downhill to the finish! Coming into view of the dunes there is always the thought. I could keep going! Actually, no. I was out of food. I had a few boils left in my fuel canister. I could ride to Dyer or Lone Pine for resupply. But I couldn’t do another lap. Maybe there are a couple of days of food in the camper. I don’t remember my provisions. Well planned as far as having just enough.

I heard an interview about what makes a great route, daily highlights were the key. This route has that quality. I regret riding in the dark and missing the views, but time of year, ambition and weather dictated those choices. How spectacular would this ride be in “perfect” conditions? All in all this is fine desert bikepacking. It was distinct from the Mojave Butterfly with a mix of Great Basin and Mojave desert qualities. The biggest impression was the scale and size of the route and the terrain. Doug and I have talked about repeating the trip in November. We can drill down in some route details then. For now let me know if you do this or parts of it and how it went.

Highlights:

• Saline Hot Springs 
• Salt Mine Team
• Racetrack Playa
• Darwin Canyon/Old Toll Rd
• Goeler Canyon 
• Death Valley lake
• Echo Canyon 
• Tule Canyon 
• Eureka Dunes 

By the numbers: 414 miles, 35,450′ of climbing. Ride with GPS Collection here. I imagine this will be repeated by Doug and I before the end of 2026. Stay tuned, see you out there!